5. Jul, 2022
What is a natural wine? When making natural wine, the starting point is not to interfere in any way or as little as possible with the natural process, both with growing grapes on the vineyard and with the final wine making in the cellar. The difference with ecological or bio dynamic wines is that although the latter are made from ecologically or bio dynamically grown grapes, there is still plenty of artificial use in the cellar, such as filtering and clarifying the wine. Producers of natural wines grow ecologically or bio dynamically and then have the wine produced without intervention. For example, no extra sulphite (SO2) may be added for the aging and stability of the wine.
David Camino, the enthusiastic owner of Anyway Wine Bar, is a warm advocate of natural wines. As a young dynamic entrepreneur, he understands that the wine world is also facing a transition to more sustainable production and consumption, away from chemical pesticides in the vineyard and a multitude of chemical and other tricks to ‘improve’ wine.
The entire spectrum of ecological, bio dynamic and natural wines has had a false start in the past. The urge to make wines in such a natural way was often more important than the taste of the wine, often resulting in disastrous wines. Also the knowledge to get the natural processes under control without the traditional wine making techniques to prevent the wine becoming a victim of fungi, bacteria and oxidation, was often lacking. They still suffer from this image, despite the fact that the quality has improved dramatically in recent years.
The Malaga Wine Guide tasted some natural wines from David’s extremely original and challenging wine list (with also plenty of classically made wines). A spontaneous adventure on a weekday afternoon.
Tragolargo, Moscatel Malvasia 2018. White, dry wine from Alicante from bodega Casa Balaguer Vinessens (60% moscatel, 40% malvasia). In no way does this wine resemble the typical recognizable aromatic characteristics of moscatel. Various elegant fruit tones drift from the glass. Especially orange and melon. In the mouth very recognizable orange peel. Its bitterness contrasts nicely with a hint of honey. Enough acidity for the balance. The wine is by no means ´afrutado´, like most dry moscatel, but soft-dry. Liquid pure fruit.
Bodega Lovamor, Albillo 2012. White wine from Castilla-León from this ancient-old grape variety. Beyond the difficult nose (reminiscent of powdered cheese from grandmother’s kitchen) an exciting wine unfolds, which is not reminiscent of what we drank before. Nice white fruit, apple dominates, followed by pear and melon. A little jumpy wine, reminiscent of cider in the distance. A beautiful bitter in the aftertaste.